Among the Iranians:

A Guide to Iran’s Culture and Customs

Intercultural Press, Boston, Mass., March 2010

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About Among the Iranians

In the wake of the current media focus on Iran's nuclear technology development and its place in Middle East politics, the West continues its quest to understand this paradoxical nation its politics, yes, but also its people, their culture, and even the everyday customs and rituals. Among the Iranians presents an inside look at the hidden rules that exist among Iranians, from polite behavior and the underlying cultural notion or face to gender roles to the image that every Iranian wants to project to the world. Western readers may be familiar with a stereotyped view of Iran's unchanging high culture in its great mosques and squares and to some extent its classical literature in the poems of Hafez and Khayyam. However, this book aims to convey the nitty-gritty of everyday life in Iran: how to queue for bread, how to get a job done in a government office, dress codes and degrees of piety, marriage as a connection between families, the elaborate system of Persian politeness. Written with a mix of personal observation and intercultural theory, the goal of Among the Iranians is to open people's eyes about the fascinating everyday reality of Iran in short, the book seeks to explain everything you ever wanted to discover about Iran's culture and customs, but didn't even know to ask.

“Packed with fascinating insights into an ancient and widely misunderstood culture, it is part-travel guide, part-sociological analysis, part-autobiography—and a must-read for anyone who wants to know the real story about life in Iran.”
— Sarah Arnott, correspondent, The Independent
“Sofia Koutlaki has opened a window onto ordinary Iranians and their everyday lives. She takes us inside the home, but also out into public spaces, and shows us, with love, an Iran rarely seen by outsiders and a culture whose subtleties she has penetrated with skill and understanding. Her book is essential reading for outsiders who want to understand Iran. Iranians abroad too will find much here to please—and perhaps surprise—them.”
— Ziba Mir-Hosseini, author of Islam and Gender: the Religious Debate in Contemporary Iran
“An excellent, useful introduction to Iranian culture and customs for people who have never been to Iran, or potential visitors.... The fact that the author has lived in Iran herself as a member of an Iranian family, enables her to go into greater detail on Iranian customs and habits of life than has been done in most other previous books.”
— Michael Axworthy, author of A History of Iran: Empire of the Mind
“This book provides a fascinating insight into the realities of daily life in Iran. Looking beyond the grim news headlines, the author paints a sympathetic and evocative portrait of the Iranian people, their habits, customs and histories. It will become essential reading for anyone planning a trip to Iran, or who simply wishes to get to know the Iranian people better.”
— Stephanie Cronin, Oriental Institute, University of Oxford
The Sunday Telegraph, 16 May 2010

The Sunday Telegraph, 16 May 2010

Roxane Farmanfarmaian in the London Middle East Institute Bulletin (July-August 2010)

Roxane Farmanfarmaian in the London Middle East Institute Bulletin (July-August 2010)

Lonely Planet, April 2010

Lonely Planet, April 2010

 

Amazon reviews

I ordered this book before I came to Iran for the summer to study Persian and travel around the country and it has proved to be invaluable. I stayed with an Iranian family and many aspects of the culture were new for me despite the fact that I have spent many years living in other Middle Eastern countries. Iranian culture and society is very sophisticated and for those who wish to go beyond the surface of Iran and to really experience life here, a good knowledge of culture and society is necessary to show respect. I read through the whole book and then kept on going back to it as a reference book whenever I encountered something that I didn't understand or didn't know how to respond to. The author covers every minor and major custom and tradition in Iranian society and is very comprehensive, discussing everything from how to navigate the famous Persian custom of ta'roof, how to dress for a wedding, to what gifts to bring for different occasions and which shoes or sandals you should or shouldn't wear inside and outside the house. As a foreign woman married to an Iranian and living in Iran for a number of years, the author's personal narratives about her experiences in Iran are also insightful and a good read.

If you plan on traveling through Iran or staying for a longer period of time, this book should be the first book on your list!

R Aslan

This an excellent guide for travellers to Iran, particularly women. The author is a Greek who married an Iranian and shares with her readers what she learned about the culture, how she learned it and what preconceptions she needed to set aside. I recently travelled to Iran and wanted to know what to wear, both to comply with the law and to maintain my own individuality while doing so.

Koutlaki carefully describes the underlying culture and recent history of aspects of life in Iran today. For example, she reminds the reader that when the first Phalavi Shah first imposed "Western" dress in the 1920's many Iranian women confined themselves to their homes because they felt so uncomfortable going out in public without covering their heads. Her descriptions of the refinements of hijab wear, the colours, the sensuality of the fabrics, the special tailors which only women may visit makes clear how women can turn anything into a fashion statement. It can even be subversive in the nicest possible way. But Koutlaki makes it clear that many women find ways to follow hijab that fit with their own cinvictions. Iran - Persia - is an ancient culture with its own values and traditions. And its people are curious, intellectual and very indepent minded. Arabic traditions are as foreign as western tradtions, although in place longer. Iranians find ways to integrate them all - and to subvert them.

MAFW

Publishers’ sites

John Murray Press: https://www.johnmurraypress.co.uk/?s=Sofia+Koutlaki

Hachette Australia: https://www.hachette.com.au/sofia-a-koutlaki/among-the-iranians-a-guide-to-irans-culture-and-customs

 

 
The Russian edition of Among the Iranians

The Russian edition of Among the Iranians